Exploring the Eastern Shore

(Marine Drive)

The Halifax Regional Municipality extends from Dartmouth along the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia. This is a land of island-filled bays, broad sandy beaches and seaside villages. Inland, there are lakes and rivers renowned for canoeing and fishing.

Following Rte. 207 past the Cole Harbour Heritage Farm Museum, the road winds along the salt marshes of Cole Harbour to arrive at Lawrencetown Beach, renowned for its tremendous year-round surf. As with many of the parks along the Marine Drive, beach access is provided by ramped boardwalks to protect the fragile dunes.

Heading inland from here up Crowell Road to Rte. 107 and Rte. 7 takes you past Porter's Lake, 24 km long, the site of a provincial camping and picnic park. Also at Porter's Lake, the Old Hall Wilderness Heritage Centre features the cultural and natural history of the Porter's Lake area, housed in a beautifully restored former church hall. Continuing along Rte. 207 past the oceanside communities of Seaforth and Grand Desert, will bring you into the small community of West Chezzetcook whose population is descended from an isolated Acadian community of the 18th century. While there, you can visit the historic Acadian church, St. Anslem's, and the old cemetery, or dig clams on the salt marshes.

Connecting to Rte. 7 and heading east, you come to the attractive town of Musquodoboit Harbour, which straddles the Musquodoboit River, one of Nova Scotia's finest trout and salmon rivers. The community is home to a wonderful Railway Museum and the local Visitor Information Centre, housed in a restored CN train station.

If you are a beachcomber or nature lover, you won't want to miss Martinique Beach Park (unsupervised). Just 10 km from Musquodoboit Harbour, Martinique is a sparkling crescent of fine packed sand that stretches for 5 km (3 miles) along the coast, making it the longest beach in Nova Scotia. Behind the beach, a bird sanctuary attracts a wide variety of waterfowl.

Another of the Eastern Shore's appealing attractions is The Fisherman's Life Museum in Jeddore Oyster Pond. This tiny house and gardens have been preserved just as they were at the turn of the century when this was the home of an inshore fisherman, his wife and their 13 daughters.

Take the loop road from Lake Charlotte for wonderful ocean views and another magnificent beach at Clam Harbour Beach Park (full amenities, supervised weekends). The road brings you back to Route 7 at the community of Ship Harbour, home of North America's largest surface cultivated mussel farm.

Salmon lovers will want to stop in the historic seaside village of Tangier, where exquisite smoked salmon and other smoked seafood delicacies are produced. Tangier is also a world-class destination for sea kayakers, who come to paddle the area's stunning coastline with its unspoiled islands, secluded coves and abundant wildlife.

Another superb way to experience the coastal environment is to hike the trails at Taylor Head Provincial Park (unsupervised). The park is located on a spectacular peninsula, and features a lovely sand beach that is sheltered from the direct force of the waves, making it ideal for swimming. The park's trails follow Mushaboom Harbour, through a diverse array of natural habitats, rising above the shoreline to offer unparalleled views of the open ocean.

Rte. 7 continues on, winding along the island-dotted coastline, past bays and river estuaries. The community of Sheet Harbour is at the junction of Routes 7 and 224. It was formerly an important lumber, ship-building and fishing centre. At the edge of town, Rte. 374 takes you inland through the Liscombe Game Sanctuary, a haven for wildlife.

The community of Necum Teuch (pronounced nee-comm-taw) on Rte. 7 is becoming well known for an interesting collection of scarecrows - so lifelike, visitors have been known to attempt conversations with them.

The town of Ecum Secum marks the easternmost boundary of the Halifax Regional Municipality, but many people continue along the Marine Drive to Sherbrooke Village. This living history museum of more than 30 historic buildings is peopled each summer with costumed interpreters re-creating life in a colourful lumbering and goldmining town of the 1800s.

On the return trip, a popular alternate route is to turn inland on Rte. 224 near Sheet Harbour and travel through some of Nova Scotia's most unspoiled wilderness to Upper Musquodoboit. Continue on Rte. 224 west to follow the lush Musquodoboit River Valley. Left off this route, approximately 18 km down Mooseland Road, is the Moose River Gold Mines Museum. A provincial park adjacent to the museum protects the site of the famous gold mining disaster and rescue of 1936. Back on Rte. 224 at Middle Musquodoboit, stop by the day-use picnic park or visit the historic Bicentennial Theatre and Visitor Information Centre. From here, Rte. 357 follows the Musquodoboit River to the sea, a pastoral drive ending at Musquodoboit Harbour back on Rte. 7.

Branching off Rte. 357 just past Elderbank, Rte. 212 leads past Dollar Lake Provincial Park, nestled in its own peaceful wooded valley, to meet with Hwy. 102 at Exit 5A near the Halifax International Airport. At Exit 6 across from the airport you will find the Atlantic Canada Aviation Museum, devoted to preserving Atlantic Canada's aviation heritage, complete with restored planes and a high-flying gift shop. If you stay on Rte. 224 to Rte. 277, you will come to the village of Lantz, where you can turn to follow scenic Rte. 2 south as it winds beside lakes and through picturesque suburban communities back to Bedford Basin. Along the shore of Shubenacadie Grand Lake are the Oakfield Golf and Country Club, Oakfield Provincial Park (day-use) and Laurie Provincial Park (camping).

This drive along the lakes follows the route of the old Shubenacadie Canal to the village of Waverley. The Waverley Heritage Museum tells the story of the nugget of gold discovered in Willis' Brook in 1861, and how the village grew from 500 to 2,000 in six years as miners and investors arrived. From Waverley, Rte. 2 takes you back to Bedford, past a picnic park on Paper Mill Lake.

Rte. 318 from Waverley follows the Shubenacadie Canal system, beside Lake William and Lake Charles and back to Dartmouth. Shubie Campground and Park is just off this route, as is the Fairbanks Centre, with its displays on the canal and restored Locks 2 and 3.

An alternate route from Waverley is Cobequid Road, which cuts across country to Lower Sackville, part of the large urbanized area just inland from Bedford, upstream along the Sackville River. This river was recently rejuvenated by enthusiastic local volunteers and is home once again to an active salmon population.

Fultz House Museum, Sackville Drive at Cobequid Road (parking on Memory Lane), is Sackville's oldest residence. The museum chronicles the history and growth of the area through its hundreds of artifacts, including a stagecoach and photographs. The Old Sackville Road, leading away from Fultz House across the intersection, is a lovely drive through the surrounding countryside.

This ends our tour through the varied communities of the Halifax Regional Municipality. The rest of this guide contains a wealth of detail about specific attractions, accommodations, restaurants, nightlife and more - please read on for more information to enhance your stay.